Chapter 4 - The Anatomy Of A Model Ship

The most effective form of tuition that I know of is for the student and teacher to build a model ship together, from raw materials to completion and from keel to truck; improvising their patterns, plans and sketches in the process. Scaled drawings alone do not teach the why and wherefore of a ship's structure. There is no substitute for actual practice in mechanical construction because, in the process of fashioning each simple part, visualization of the next one ahead is understood, which is denied to the casual reader. Only experience can provide the knowledge to comprehend the anatomy of a ship.

Ariel the blue ribbon ship has been selected for this example because every detail of the model is available, but the main object is to teach the student a groundwork of knowledge that is applicable to ships of all types. The tuition provided, the materials used, the method of construction employed and the tools needed to build her are essential to every student.

In subsequent chapters, when he is required to work from scaled drawings, the knowledge gained in this apprenticeship course will be invaluable, because most of the items he will then have to contend with have already been fashioned with his own hands.

The Interpretation of Scaled Drawings

The student modeler can expect little progress in the art of model ship building until he can visualize the full dimensional structure of the ship. Model ship drawings obtainable from the supplier are often copies of original plans drawn up by naval architects to be interpreted by professional ship builders. These drawings must of necessity be single dimensional because draughtsmen cannot portray all the dimensions on paper in one drawing, except in perspective. The construction of any hull contains four dimensions: length, depth, breadth and bulk; all of which are shown in drawings separately.

The body plan, Fig. 1, shows depth only, but when properly interpreted shows breadth also. In its present form the lines A to M belong to one side of the ship only; actually the structure is that of a half model. However, if all the ribs or contours are doubled as in Fig. 2, and installed in their appointed places on the keel, the structure would then take on four dimensions as shown in Fig. 3.

The framework of the hull must be built up as shown in Fig. 3 in order to get all four dimensions. Item 1 are the inwales that hold the ribs in position; 2 is the stempost; 3 is the stem knee; 4 is the keel; 5 is the sternpost and 6 is the midship timber. The structure now shows bulk, length, depth and breadth.

Rudiments of a Planked Hull

When all the ribs are fitted like item 6 in Fig. 3, the hull is ready for planking. Ribs can be bent easily by marking the contours on a board; bending is not difficult if the wood is steamed or soaked overnight. Hold them in position with pins until dry, then secure them to the keel as shown in Fig. 4.

FIG-. 4
"Ribbep Frame

Planking comes next, but planking is one of those troublesome operations whose specific details are difficult to explain. It is a process of trial and error, even to professionals; all that anyone can offer is a bit of guidance.

Begin with the garboard strake: the plank next to the keel. It must fit closely to the keel and ribs at all points. Leave the top edge straight to fit the next one below it. (We are working with the hull upside down.) Cut a strip of cardboard a little wider than the actual plank, and long enough to reach from stem to sternpost; fasten the pattern to each rib with thumb tacks, then draw a straight line at the top edge, and cut it with scissors. Once you have the pattern ready, transfer it to the plank. Always make two planks from each pattern; you will need another of the same shape and dimensions on the other side. This applies to all planks.

The unfortunate part of teaching how to plank a hull is the feeling of futility because the method is outmoded and unlikely to be used on model ships. It has two great drawbacks, viz: In North America where houses are generally overheated in winter time, planked hulls are liable to warp and crack in time. There is also the time element. To fashion all the ribs, strakes and beams, and plank over them will consume at least 200 working hours, against 50 hours by the lift method. Once the hull is sanded and painted, not even the experts can tell which is which. Nevertheless, a knowledge of the inside structure of the hull provides the student with a groundwork of perception which helps him to evaluate many problems related to model shipbuilding; especially if he decides to build miniature racing yachts or power boats where stability and proper steerage can only be accomplished with construction of this nature.

Essential Supplies and Tools

Before beginning to fashion the model, materials, tools and supplies must be collected. It is good practice to begin with only essential items, because these things have a habit of accumulating. The most useful items in the modeler's workshop are the Suppliers' Catalogs lots of them. They reveal a wealth of information that is of untold value to the student. (See Appendix for suppliers' names.)

Various types of wood suitable for model building must be selected. Some modelers use balsa wood for the hull because it is easily carved, but balsa is not durable and is subject to injury in the process of building. Southern white pine, free from knots and refractory grains, and which is available from most lumber dealers, is quite satisfactory. Hardwoods are often used for the keel, stem and sternpost, but they are not essential. Beside wood there are many items like Weldwood and contact glues; sandpaper of many sizes; plastic patch, and an assortment of nails, pins, and screws which can all be obtained from one source. Rather than attempt to name every item which is going to be needed at some point, or on certain models, I will mention them as we find need for them while building any model.

Tools For The Modeler

Modeler's Tools and Their Uses

The above illustration shows the tools sufficient for the student modeler, with the exception of a mechanic's vice which is useful for holding small parts to be shaped. Some modelers prefer a carpenter's vice but I have never felt the need for one. The mechanic's vice provides more even pressure when gluing parts together, and for numerous other operations. Put a piece of cloth between the jaws to prevent injury to the finish of the object to be held.

Item 1. The fret saw is used to shape wood parts. Thick wood requires a coarser tooth blade, while fine tooth blades are more suitable for thin woods.

Item 2. The hand plane is an all purpose tool.
Item 3. The spokeshave is required to smooth down rough surfaces that are too rough for the plane.

Item 4. Snips are used for cutting wire and snipping the heads off pins and brads used for fastening parts to the hull.

Item 5. Two or more rules are needed; a large one for general use and a fine 1/32nd scale for deck houses and other small parts.

Item 6. Dividers, equipped with a marking pencil, have many uses. They can be set in position to gauge the waterline, or used to mark off circular or semi-circular items where required.

Item 7. The Collet Drill. This little tool is one of most useful in the whole kit. It is only four inches long and has a chuck at both ends to take drills from 1/32nd to ⅛ th. It is operated with one hand, leaving the other free to hold the object. For reaming out holes in blocks and deadeyes; for drilling through the masts, and for pilot holes for pins and screws, it has no equal.

Item 8. This all purpose knife is known as a linoleum cutter. For model work in general it serves many purposes. It has spare blades in the handle which can be kept razor sharp with an oil stone. It is excellent for cutting thin woods by scoring on both sides and will leave a clean precision edge when broken off.

Item 9. Self locking tweezers are very useful for stropping blocks and deadeyes; for fishing rope ends in among the rigging and for tying knots in awkward places.

Item 10. Two sizes of screwdrivers are needed; a medium size for rough work like hull assembly, and a small one for such tiny screws as those that fasten the chain plates to the hull.

Item 11. A soldering iron is needed for metal bands on the yards and spars.

Item 12. A set of small files: round, half round, flat and square come in handy for fashioning smallwares.

Item 13. At least four small clamps with about two inch opening will be needed to hold small items together while the glue is drying.

Item 14. Chisels are handy tools about the hull; a one inch size and a one-quarter inch size will be sufficient.

Item 15. A pair of scissors with a fine point is needed to get in among the rigging to cut the ends off close; also for trimming ratlines.

Item 16. The Little Giant plane is a very important item. The subject of carving knives occupies many pages in the suppliers' catalog and elsewhere, but these little planes are more convenient than any of them for smoothing the contours of the hull. One of them has two separate radiuses to get into difficult places; the other is flat. Both use discarded razor blades.

Ariel The blue ribbon ship

Ariel was the loveliest and fastest of all the China Clippers. Experts concede first place to her for her sparkling performance under Captain John Keay. Her maiden voyage in 1866, from London to Foochow in 103 days against the monsoon; her race against Taping and sixteen others on her return voyage of 15,000 miles in 101 days; her record run to Hong Kong in 79 days the following year, and her general average of fast voyages puts her at the top of the list with no contenders.

Robert Steel built Ariel in 1865 for Shaw Maxton Co., whose house flag she wore she was the first of the six beam ships, and wore more canvas than any other known ship of her size. She was beautifully proportioned, both in hull lines and rigging, and was fitted with a brass rail mounted on stanchions all round the ship. As a model, Ariel is no doubt the best example of the China Clippers.

Broadside View Of Ariel

The best way to learn the anatomy of a ship is to take as an example one for which plans are available, and equally important one which is well worth the effort we shall expend on her model as we learn the anatomy of a ship. Ariel meets all our requirements.

"OUT of the rock, the tree, the springing herb We built this wandering beauty so superb."

John Masefield

The Hull Structure

Bermuda News Bureau
Quarter View Of Ariel
 
The lift, or bread and butter method we are going to use in fashioning the hull is not new, but new methods of finishing off the surplus wood and new assembly techniques have greatly improved it during the past five years. In contrast to the rib and plank method, the hull is finalized with a single dimension, viz: the lines of the ship; detail 3 on Drawing 55. Looking down at these lines you see the actual formation of the ship bottom-up. There are 6 lifts correctly numbered; the first four are below the L.W.L. or load waterline; 5 is the L.W.L. lift and 6 is the deck or sheer lift.
Each one of these lifts must be traced on a heavy paper wide enough to double, as shown in detail 4 on Drawing 55. Then the patterns are marked out on a white pine board as in Fig. No. 7, the thickness of these boards is shown in body plan Drawing 55.

When all these lifts are properly centered and traced on the wood boards, saw them out with a coarse tooth fret saw; or, better still, take them to a friend who has a band saw; it is only fifteen minutes work. The broken lines on Fig. 7 represent the lifts sawn out in the centre. It is not shown on the scaled drawings, but it will help in stepping the masts later on. The center of all the lifts except the bottom one, No. 1, should be sawn out; the lifts will then be shaped as in Fig. 8.

It is very important that the top edges of these lifts remain smooth and uninjured, because they are the exact size of the hull dimensions and need no carving. The centre line, both on the flat surface and the fore and aft edges, must remain clear and distinct.

When all six lifts are sawn out as in Fig. 8, assemble them in their right order; then the hull is rough shaped to its proper proportions and shows all four dimensions: length, depth, breadth and bulk. See Fig. 9.

Before you assemble the lifts, mark out the position of the keel on lift No. 1 as shown in Fig. 10.

Despite advice to the contrary, do not glue these lifts together yet. If you do, the carving with chisel and plane will be restricted and dangerous to the top edges of the lifts below, which must be kept intact. Assemble the lifts with countersunk wood screws; then the overhanging surplus wood is clearly visualized as in the cross section sketch of the hull at midships. See Fig. 11.

All the surplus wood which is shaded in Fig. 11 must be planed off in order to shape the hull; this can be done easily when the lifts are loose. Turn the hull bottom-up and mark each top plank against the upper edge of the next one below it. Remove the wood screws and use your hand plane No. 2 for this operation, but exercise care that you do not erase the marks on the lifts. Begin with the deck lift No. 6 and plane off the surplus wood; follow the same process with all the other lifts but do not reassemble the lifts yet.

The Importance of the Sheer Lift

The mechanical work on any type of hull must be done in its proper time and sequence. This fact is just as important in tuition as how to do it. The sheer lines, which is a rugged operation, must be done before the hull block is reassembled. Fasten the deck lift to the L.W.L. lift with Weldwood glue; then mount it on a stout board, which is secured firmly to the bench with clamps or screws.

It would be easier to check off the limits of the sheer lines from the profile of the ship, but such a practice would not enlighten the student as to the purpose of them. Understanding is not the function of fractional measurements, but guidance is. Sheer lines, based on the L.W.L., are meant to the give freeboard to the hull where it is most useful. The bow view is the highest point, the transom, right aft, is the next highest and midships is the lowest. Sheer lines also provide the graceful trim of the ship and drainage to the midship section where the pumps and scuppers are. The deck lift is always thicker than any of the others to allow for carving. To simplify this operation, the deck or sheer lift is shown marked out in inches by rule, not by scale.

Carving the Sheerline

The deck lift No. 6 in the full size model is ¾ inch thick. This surplus wood must be removed. When it is secured firmly to the bench, saw slots across it about ¾ inch apart; do not saw right down to the sheer line". These sections can easily be lifted out with a chisel. Smooth off the rough parts with a spoke-shave then finish off with a hand plane. The deck lift does not need to be perfectly smooth because the deck plank will be glued over it. Fig. 14 shows the completed job.

The forecastle and poop deck lifts can now be fitted by tracing the patterns direct from the model as shown in Figs. 15 and 16.

These lifts, made from ⅜ th pine wood with the grain fore and aft, can be permanently fixed in position with dowels and glue.

Remove the hull from the building board and assemble all the lifts with Weldwood glue and screws. Watch your centre lines carefully. The hull is now rough-shaped and needs only a little carving, which can be done efficiently with those little planes, Item 15 in the tool list. However, carving stations must be marked out on the hull block. See Fig. 17, Drawing 56.

These vertical lines, at one inch intervals of the model represent carving stations for gauging the lines of the hull. The body plan shows the contours of all patterns but only those shown on Fig. 17 are needed. Patterns #6 and #19 are shown in Fig. 18.

The waterline mark, shown with an arrow on the pattern must be placed dead on the L.W.L. on the hull block when gauging the lines and beauty of the model. The same pattern is used in the same position on both sides of the hull.

This operation is very important. You must smooth off the surplus wood to the radius of your patterns with chisel, plane and coarse sandpaper. When you are satisfied with your work, go over the hull and fill in all the faults and seams with plastic patch mixed with water. When dry, sand the whole structure with medium sandpaper and apply two thick coats of turpentine and varnish to seal the grains.

The keel and stempost come next. The pattern for the stem knee is shown on Drawing 55 in full size. The keel, made from any good wood, is l/8th x 3/16th, and is fastened to the bottom plank on dead centre, with round tooth picks and Weldwood glue, just like the stem.

Bulkheads

The forecastle and poop deck bulkheads are next on the list. Make your cardboard patterns from the model for exact dimensions. Windows and ladders are stock items with all suppliers. The railings are painted white, the bulkheads azure and the ladders black. The little forecastle companion house is detailed in full size on deck house Plate No. 4.
 

Next on the list is the working cradle; mount two half inch forms on the building board, saw out patterns No. 4 and No. 16 and lay the hull into it as shown in Fig. 22.

This is the end of the hull structure and if care has been taken at all levels, and the instructions followed faithfully, the result will be appraised with pride and satisfaction.

Laying and Scribing the Deck Plank

The deck plank of 1/16th pine may be made in four seections, viz: the poop deck, monkey poop, main and forecastle decks. Cardboard should be placed over these positions and marked against the edge of the lifts; then transferred to the deck plank. Scribing should be done before these forms are cut out because, in the surplus wood, thumb tacks can be used to hold the forms in position. Take a hard pencil and scribe the lines 1/16th apart; details are shown on the monkey poop house, Plate No. 4. Begin at midship and work outward. If you prefer, the supplier has scribed decking 6" X 24". (Scribing is to indicate the deck planking.)

When the decks are all scribed, varnish them; then take all the deck planks and trim them 1/16th of an inch on each side but not at the ends. Fig. 23 shows the reason. The scribed deck plank needs to be smaller than the deck lift, to form a recess for the bulwarks later on. A great deal of time will be saved in fitting the bulwarks by this innovation. The scribed decks can now be glued to the deck lifts. Thumb tacks may be used in places that are going to be covered by hatches and deck houses. The outer edges should be weighted, to prevent curling.

Deck Houses and Fittings

The folded drawing, Plate No. 4, shows all the deck houses and fittings in full size. The monkey poop deck and house are detailed in Figs. A. B. C. D. The doors and ports may be simulated with paper decorations from your supplier. The design is not important as long as it matches that of the other deck houses. The poop deck house may be sawn out of ¼" stock and the companion out of ½" stock. Brass stanchions ⅜" long are driven into the wood to form the handrail as shown in detail B. Paint these rails white. Pin and glue the complete house to the deck where marked on the deck layout. The wheel house, detail E, is simply an oblong block ½" X 5/16" with a roof on it painted vermillion.

The fore deck and midship houses are the same details F.G.H. They may be sawn out of the solid block, squared and sanded. Layers of thin wood are used to fashion the roofs. Paint them green before applying the paper decorations. Fix to the deck in their proper positions.

The main hatch which is 1" square and the fore hatch, which is ¾" square, is sawn out of 3/16" stock and covered with a 1/16" sheet, slightly larger. The thick portion, which are the combings, are painted green and the top scribed crosswise like the deck. Install at positions shown.

Fife Rails

Fife rails are belaying pin holders fixed near the masts; all three are the same size. Since these are fragile make them out of sheet fibre 1/16" thick. Mark them out from the pattern and drill all the holes with a 1/32nd drill. Details are shown on deck layout, Drawing 55.

The other deck items such as capstans, bollards, pump and windlass, may be beyond the student's capacity to carve at this early stage. To buy them from the supplier would give him a better understanding than drawings can; during the next course he will have more experience and fashion them himself if he desires.

Bulwarks and Ratlings

The main deck, poop deck and forecastle bulwarks may be made of a one piece of stripwood 1/16" thick and ⅝" high, shaped like Fig. 24, which fits into the recesses shown in Fig. 22. Tiny pins can hold it in position while the Weldwood glue is drying. The crescent shaped section of the railing right aft may be bent to shape by steaming in the spout of a kettle.

Fig- No- 2 4
 
The handrails run all around the ship and are made from 3/16" by 3/16" stripwood. The edges are rounded as in Fig. 24; then pinned and glued to the bulwarks.

Our model is that of the most elegant ship of the China fleet. Instead of having a topgallant rail like the others, she sported a brass rail mounted on stanchions all round the ship. Low brass stanchions 3/16" are fixed into the main rail at two inch intervals. The quarter view of Ariel on page 22 and the broadside view on page illustrate the method clearly. The brass rail is made from # 12 B and S gauge, soft annealed wire and bent to the shape shown in Fig. 26. There is a loop formed right forward called the pulpit and the join is under the stanchion right aft. Put all the stanchions on the rail in equal numbers port and starboard before final assembly.

Pin rails must be attached to the railings at certain intervals. These are made from ⅛" x 1/16" stripwood and drilled for belaying pins before attaching them to the rails. The purpose of these pin rails is to accommodate the upper yard braces and the sail control lines in their proper position and sequence, which becomes clearer in the section on rigging.

Pin Rails

Shape these pin rails and drill them with a 3/32nd drill; paint them mast color, like the spars. They are fixed to the railings with dowels and glue, directly opposite the masts. The mizzen pin in rail is fixed one inch aft of the break of the poop deck. See deck layout, Drawing 55.

Channels on the Hull

Channels are spreaders for the deadeyes to which the shrouds, stays and halyards are attached. They are made from wood strip ½" X ⅛", and are fixed to the hull as shown in Drawing 56. The main channel is 4½" long and has 15 notches, spaced 5/16" on centre. The fore and mizzen channels are 3½" long and have 11 notches. Deadeyes 14" are used on all the lower shrouds and l/g" on the topmast shrouds.

Fig. 28 shows the rudder and sternpost in full size; the division between the two may be marked by scoring. Paper strips to simulate the hinges may be applied. Fasten securely to the hull, when properly sanded, with dowels and glue.

Painting the Hull

Moisture in the wood can play havoc with painting; leave the hull on a warm radiator overnight, or leave it out in the hot sun for a while. Go over the hull with medium sandpaper; then fill in any seams or imperfections with plastic patch. The surface of the hull must be perfectly smooth. Paint will not hide flaws, only discolor them. Use fine sandpaper for the next rub, followed by extra fine. Give the hull two coats of flat white, sanding each coat with extra fine paper. Use masking tape with its upper edge dead on the L.W.L.; the upper works, right up to the main rails, are painted gloss black. The masking tape should be removed before the paint gets too hard.

Reverse the masking tape now with its edge downward, right on the L.W.L. mark; then paint the bottom light green to imitate copper paint.

The sheer strake, painted white, can now be fitted; made from 1/16" X 1/32" stripwood. It covers the seam between the deck lift and the bulwarks and runs all round the ship. Fasten with tiny pins.

Masts and Spars

Drawing 56 shows all the masts and spars in half scale, but the mass of rigging which cover them may make it difficult to visualize them; therefore a table of measurements is provided.

Ariel's masts and spars followed the usual proportions in vogue during mid-1860s. Her mainmast was ¾ of her length on deck and her main yard ⅓ of her length. The lower mast and topmast had very little taper. In no case must the top of these masts be smaller than the heel of the mast above it.

Yard tapers need not be exact because there is no substantiated evidence that masts and spars followed the same scale as that of the hull. Actually the yard arm tip should be about 1/3 of the size at the centre. A proportionate job that looks professional is quite in order.

Some modellers use hardwood dowels for shaping the mast and spars. Selected white pine stripwood is much easier to work with. Plane the square strips into hexicon shape, then use sandpaper to size and taper them. Make all your masts and spars at the same time and paint them mast color (flesh color).

Mast Assembly and Fittings

Details of the fittings are shown in full scale on Plate No. 6. Mast bands, made of thin copper, should be fitted to the masts at positions shown on Drawing 56. The mast caps and the lower top, detail I and K on Plate 6, should be made of 1/16" fibre for strength; holes should be drilled before the forms are sawn out. Both these items should be painted white. The mast bands and the spreader should be painted black. All masts have the same fittings, except the mainmast which has an additional mast band for the skysail yard.

Table Of Masts And Spar Measurements

                                                Length                       Thickness            Taper
                                                in inches                    in inches

Lower main                                    7½                            ¼                     1/32
Lower foremast                              7¼                            1/42                 1/32
Lower mizzen                                 6¾                            7/32                 1/32
Main topmast                                 4½                            3/16                 1/32
Fore topmast                                  3¾                            3/16                 1/32
Mizzen topmast                              3½                            3/16                 1/32
Main topgallant                               5¼                            ⅛                     1/32
Fore topgallant                               4½                            ⅛                     1/32
Mizzen topgallant                            3¼                            3/32                 1/32
Lower main yard                            7⅜                            3/16                 ⅛
Lower fore yard                             7                               3/16                 ⅛
Lower mizzen yard                         5⅞                            5/32                 ⅛
Main lower topsail yard                  6¾                            3/16                 3/32
Fore lower topsail yard                   6⅝                            5/32                 3/32
Mizzen lower topsail yard               5                               5/32                 3/32
Main upper topsail yard                  6                               ⅛                     1/16
Fore upper topsail yard                   5¾                            ⅛                     1/16
Mizzen upper topsail yard               4¾                            ⅛                     1/16
Main topgallant yard                       4¾                            ⅛                     1/16
Fore topgallant yard                        4½                            ⅛                     1/16
Mizzen topgallant yard                    3¾                            3/32                 1/32
Main royal yard                              3¾                            3/32                 1/32
Fore royal yard                               3½                            3/32                 1/32
Mizzen royal yard                           3¼                            3/32                 1/32
Main skysail yard                            3⅛                            1/16                 1/32
Mizzen spanker gaff                        2⅛                            5/32                 1/32

Mizzen spanker boom                     5                               ⅛                     1/16
Bowsprit                                        4½                            ¼                     ¼
Jibboom                                         5½                            3/16                 1/16

Plate No. 6 also shows the fastenings of the upper and lower shrouds, and the assembly of the doublings. Cleeks, detail L, are made of wood and held in place with pins and glue.

Blocks on the Masts

Blocks for the yard braces are required on mizzen and mainmast, which ought to be fitted before the masts are stepped. Their numbered positions are shown on Drawing 56. Ream out all blocks with a 1/32nd drill before they are fitted in their positions, because it will be difficult to do this when the masts are crowded with ropes.

Double blocks ⅛" are required at positions 1 and 2 on the mainmast facing forward.

Double blocks ⅛" at positions 3 and 4 on the main mast facing aft.

Double blocks 3/16" at positions 5, 6 and 7 on the mainmast facing aft.

Double blocks ⅛" at positions 8 and 9 on the mizzen facing forward.

Double block 3/16" at position 10 on the mizzen, facing forward.

A single block ⅛" at position 11 on the mizzen facing aft.

The running rigging is always left to the last and by that time the masts will be a mass of ropes; making it very difficult to fasten these blocks in position then.

The Yards

Make all your yards at one time according to dimensions shown in Yard and Spar Measurements; paint them mast color. Yard bands, made of copper and painted black are required. Drill a 1/32nd hole and insert a pin which fastens the yard to the mast. Foot ropes as shown in Fig. 30 are required on all yards. Pins, with a loop at the ends, painted black are driven into the wood and black cord used for the footropes. All yards should be dressed like this before they are attached to the masts.

Stepping the Masts

The rake of the masts is quite important. The mainmast should be ¾" aft of perpendicular; the foremast ⅝" and the mizzen ½. Tie a small cord to the mast head of each mast with a weight, like a plumb line, attached. The straight line will indicate the correct rake. The heel of the masts should have a tiny screw, ¼" X 0 with the head cut off and the shaft sharpened to a needle point. See Fig. 31.
 
Each mast must be on centre amidships and in line with each other. When the correct position and rake are lined up, push the sharp point into the soft wood below decks.
 

Stepping and Rigging the Bowsprit

The bowsprit is the most important spar in the ship because it carries the strain of all the masts. Drawing 56 shows the details of both stepping and lower stays. The broken line shows the rake or "steve" of the bowsprit which must be 3" above the L.W.L. mark, at the extreme tip. A crotched stick standing on the bench will hold it in position until the glue dries. The lower stays and 1" dolphin striker are clearly shown.

The whisker stays, Plate No. 7, shows the pattern of rigging; they are lashed to the whisker booms with fine cord and are fastened to the hull with pins or dummy turnbuckles. The booms are lashed to the anchor davits with fine cord. The davits are made with ⅛" square stripwood which passes through the bulwarks and fastens to the deck. There is a slot in the outer end of the davit for a small sheave. The lanyard is attached to the lower side of the davit with a tiny screw eye. All cords on the bowsprit are black.

Spanker Gaff and Boom

The jaws are easily fashioned to fit the mizzen mast, if the forms are rough shaped and glued in position. Hold them firmly in a vise until dry; then form the jaws to fit the mast with sandpaper rolled around a small dowel. See Drawing 56.

Rigging the Model

The mass of rigging shown in profile drawings of model ships is so dense that modelers cannot trace the origin or the ends of many lines. The shrouds, stays and halyards cover up essential details of the fastenings of the running rigging. There can be little improvement until conventional habits are changed. The pigtail method at the blocks, as shown in Drawing 56, is undoubtedly a step forward. This simplified method, with all lines numbered and traced to their destination, will clarify many details heretofore obscured.

The Standing Rigging

Now that the masts are stepped in their proper positions, they must be secured by stays. The fore and aft stays marked A show the pattern. All are separate and fastened to the mast from which their name is derived. The lower main and mizzen stays are fastened under a cleek, as shown in the mast stepping Fig. 31. All stays are black cord, increasing in size from masthead to deck.

Back Stays

Drawing 56 shows the pattern of all the back stays; their origin is around the masts whose name they bear; their destination is down to deadeyes 5, 6 and 7 on mizzen and foremast and to 6, 7, 8 and 9 on the mainmast. The latter mast has a skystail stay. Both sides of the ship are rigged the same, but the stays cannot be shown on the opposite side.

Yard Halyards

The halyards are fastened to the yards as shown in Fig. 32. They pass through the mast to a pendant block on the after side, which is shown clearly in Drawing 56.

Ariel's lower main yard was 77' 6" long and 20" thick; its weight required double hoists. The whip ends of these hoists come down direct to deadeyes No. 10 and 11 on the port side. The free ends, which are shown in pigtails at the block, go down to slings fastened to deadeyes No. 10 and 11 on the starboard side, with the free ends fastened to belaying pins on the main starboard pinrail, just like Nos. 12 and 14 halyards shown on the port side. It is not possible to show details of lines on the opposite side of the ship on profile drawings. There is no confusion by showing the pigtail ends at the blocks. It means that these ends must go down to their appointed deadeyes on the opposite side. Drawing 56 shows the details.

All the other yard halyards in the ship have single blocks and are rigged alternately to port and starboard as shown on main, mizzen and foremast.

Shrouds and Ratlines

The foremast is completely rigged with shrouds and ratlines because there is no running rigging to be obscured by them. All the masts on both sides must be rigged like the foremast, as shown in Drawing 56. In addition, details of the shroud fastenings are shown separately on Plate No. 6.

The Lower Shrouds

Now that the masts are secured in position, measure the lower shrouds from the lower top down to the railings; each strand must be slightly longer than the next one forward, to compensate for the sheer of the ship. Up at the top end beyond the ratlines, leave the ends long enough to fasten them around the mast.

Except for the number of strands, all the shrouds in the ship are alike and should all be made at the same time. The ratlines are spaced 3/16" apart in all cases. The form for making the shrouds (Fig. 34) is made of card board, but a thin wood board should be at the back of it so that the pins will hold firmly. Dead eyes should be first seized to the strands and fastened to the form with pins or brads, using the centre hole for the purpose. The space between strands should be 5/16". Use plenty of spar varnish on the strands; then apply more varnish to #10 black cotton thread and criss-cross the ratlines as shown on Fig. 34. When completed, apply another coat of varnish; then lift the whole shroud up from the form with match sticks so that it will not stick to the board.

Deadeyes on the Channels

Assemble the strops and chain plates to the lower deadeyes as shown, and screw them into the hull with tiny screws ¼" X 0. The upper end of the shrouds pass through the slot in the lower top and around the mast. See Plate 6.

The Running Rigging

Pigtails at the blocks are only symbols to eliminate the necessity of tracing lines that are partially hidden behind others; in actual practice the lines should be left long enough to reach down to the pin rails on the deck where they belong.

Yard Arm Braces

The fore royal yard braces are seized to the yards and pass downward through block # 1 on the main mast to the nearest belaying pin on the main pin rail.

The fore topgallant yard braces pass down to block #2 on the main mast to the next belaying pin.

The main skysail yard braces pass down through block #8 on the mizzen mast to deadeye # 1 on the after pin rail.

The main royal yard braces pass down through block #9 on the mizzen to the next belaying pin on the after pin rail.

The main topgallant yard braces pass down through block #10 on the mizzen to the next deadeye on the after pin rail.

The Mizzen Yard Braces

All the yard braces on the mizzen are secured forward to the main mast. The mizzen royal yard braces pass down through block #3 on the main mast to the nearest belaying pin on the main pin rail.

The mizzen topgallant yard braces pass down through block #4 on the main mast.

The three lower yards on the mizzen have pendants with a single block attached. These pendants, which are attached to the yard arms, may be made of wire or small chain. The whip end of these braces should be attached to the main mast, just above the double blocks. It is good practice to make these braces in one piece and fasten the middle of it to the mast; then reeve them upward through the pendant block and downward through the double block on the masts to the nearest belaying pins on the main pin rail. Drawing 56 shows the pattern.

Running Rigging. Part 2

The lower yards on the fore and main have double purchases on account of their weight. These yards also have pendants, but the whip ends are fastened to the pendant block. See Fig. 35.

The upper topsail yard brace comes down to the inside block on the bumkin, back up to the pendant block, then down to the nearest belaying pin inside the railing.

The lower topsail braces come down to the middle block on the bumkin, back up to the block on the pendant, then down to the next belaying pin inside the railing.

The lower course yard braces come down to the outside block on the bumkin, back up to the pendant block, then down to the nearest belaying pin inside the railing. All the lower yards on fore and main are rigged the same. See Drawing 56.

Blocks

It is preferable and cheaper to use unstropped blocks and strop them as needed with black cotton thread. The ends of the strops can be left long enough to be fastened where needed, and whipping is much more satisfactory with this method. Those little self-locking tweezers, item 9 in the tool list, are ideal for this purpose.

Bumkins on the Hull

Bumkins are ¼" square posts glued into the bulwarks as shown in the deck layout, Drawing 55. They should be guyed to the hull as shown with tiny chain or wire. Tiny screw eyes, inserted in the forward side, are needed to hold the brace blocks.

Spanker Gaff and Boom

The lifts that support the spanker gaff and boom are fastened permanently to the mast cap on the mizzen topmast. The vangs which support the gaff broadside are black cord but the slings from the pendant blocks, which are fastened to the main rail with cleats, are white cord. The spanker boom sheet is whipped to the upper block as in Fig. 35. The lower block is attached to the deck with a screw eye; the end goes to a cleat on the main rail.

The Figurehead

The ship's figurehead is Ariel out of Shakespeare's "Tempest." It is a stock item in white metal from the supplier, but it can be carved out of wood if one desires. Details are shown in Fig. 36.

Lifeboats and Davits

Full size details of lifeboats are shown in Plate No. 4 for carving purposes, but it is unlikely that you can compete in quality and finish with the white metal boats obtainable from the supplier. Davits can be made with brass wire as shown in Figure 37. They can also be obtained from the supplier complete with tackles. Drill holes for them in the deck and turn them inboard, as shown in Drawing 56.
The other two boats are stowed on the deck houses, bottom up.

Flags

Ariel sported the blue ribband on the mizzen; the red ensign on the spanker gaff and her house flag on her main mast head. All are detailed in Drawing 56.

Now is the time to go over all your fastenings, adjust the alignment of all yards; then touch each line with a drop of clear nail polish and trim them closely with scissors.

The Finishing Touches

There are many small items still to be fitted, all of which are shown in full scale and in position on the deck layout Drawing No. 55. A few years ago, before the suppliers provided these machine made items, we had to whittle each part by laborious hand work, seldom making two alike. Today, these mass produced items in plastic, white metal, wood and brass are beautifully finished and priced so low that modelers would scorn to make them.

There is an "inverted economy" to model making that works in the modeler's favor. The money we save by staying home, on transportation, movies and frivolities far exceeds the cost of all the small items on the model. Tuition, therefore, on making these items is not worth the ink on the printed page.

Check off these items on the full scale deck layout and fit them in their alloted positions. You will need anchors, belaying pins, bollards, deadeyes, chain plates, cleats, a pump, wheel, binnacle, capstan, life boats, winches, dead eye strops, blocks of many sizes, hawse pipe lids, light ports, port and starboard lights, etc. You will find them all in the suppliers' catalogs.

Exhibiting the Model

The broadside view of the model shows the method of mounting it for exhibition. The baseboard should be polished mahogany or walnut. You can get both from your suppliers, or the mounting studs only. Always show the model from the starboard side.

The Completed Model

It has been a long trek up through the Primary and Anatomy courses; during the process a lot has been learnt about modeling. Compare the finished model with the quarter and broadside views in the illustrations; if you are satisfied, you have perhaps built the first and only model of Ariel, the blue ribband ship, in North America.

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