Chapter 8 - Modeling Sea Venture

Explanatory Note

The Drawing 59, and the specifications in the text, details information in two scales. Viz: the 12" model which is fully detailed on the drawings, scaled at 10' to the inch, and the 24" model which is scaled at 5' to the inch. References to measurements in the text designated "your scales" mean the scale you are using. Hence, one foot on your scale would be one 1/10th of an inch on the rule if you build the 12" model, and 1/5th of an inch if you build the 24" model.

Measurements designated "by rule" means full size and no scale is required. Many modelers dread having to shape each part of the ship by fractional measurements in order to visualize the pattern of them.

Often errors occur unless the modeler is familiar with the name and purpose of the section he is working on. There has always been a need for commentary and guidance to scaled drawings, which unfortunately have hitherto been lacking.

Symbolic figure drawings interspersed throughout the text in this course, together with the written description of their position and purpose, will make the craftsman's task more simple and speed up his work. Moreover, in the process the modeler becomes familiar with nautical names and their meaning.

The specifications drawings, photographs and building methods may be accepted with confidence, because their authenticity has been verified by experience and documentary proof. The drawing supplied with this book has been checked with historical documents; with the only model in existence, and with the wreck of the ship found in 1959. It is likely, therefore, that the details of Sea Venture, supplied now for the first time, provide the modeler with a greater degree of accuracy than that of any other old time ship.

Amateur and professional modelers can be confident for the next few years that Sea Venture will be their exclusive model and not be subject to competitive mass production. It has never been practical to provide in book form a detailed drawing whose scale was large enough to build a good sized model for institutional purposes or to be exhibited in public places.

The craftsman generally has had to enlarge all the body plan, deck layout and spars to meet this need. Drawing 59 provides scale dimensions for the 12" home model. In addition the lifts for the hull of the 24" model are shown full sized. Tables of dimensions of spars, armaments, etc., are also supplied for the larger model in the general specifications. Every effort has been made to furnish the modeler with detailed information which he has so often found lacking elsewhere.

Building a model of Sea Venture is a job for a craftsman who alone must decide which type of hull he will build. Some men are traditional perfectionists who take pride in faithfully reproducing, in minute detail, the complete lines of the ship as shown on the drawing, and will mount the complete hull on pedestals or in a cradle.

Others argue that a ship out of water showing her bilge and keel destroys her natural trim; the graceful sheer lines; rakes and levels necessary to depict a ship afloat can only be reproduced with waterline models. It is a controversy that will never be settled to the satisfaction of all. Each craftsman must fashion his masterpiece according to his individual temperament and vision of beauty. Drawing 59 shows details of both methods and both are legitimate.

The Hull Structure

Except for dimensions and shape, the hull of Sea Venture should be fashioned as shown in the detailed chapter on Anatomy. The methods employed in the construction of Ariel apply to all types of ships; there is no point in repetition. Once the hull structure is formed and carved, Sea Venture's superstructure, railings, deck fittings are different but details of them are shown in figures in the text; bulkhead and transom plates, on the master Drawing 59.

Place a carbon paper under the lifts you have selected and trace each one separately on stiff paper. Cut out these paper patterns carefully and number them; the paper should be wide enough to double. Secure the pattern to a white pine board and saw it to shape. Centering is important and so is numbering. The result will be just like Fig. 38.

Hooch Sawn Deck Lift
Saw out the centre as shown, all except the bottom lift. This will lighten the hull, help you with the mast stepping, and make it easier when you slope the deck towards midships to form the sheer line. Follow the same practice with all the other lifts and assemble them in their right order.

Do not glue the lifts together as usually recommended. Use countersunk wood screws because all that part of the wood which is shaded in Fig. 20 must be planed off which cannot be done after assembly. Turn the hull bottom-up and mark the top lifts against the next one below. Take the screws out and plane off the surplus wood. Before you reassemble the hull block, cut a slot one inch by rule in the deck lift right aft as shown in Fig. 18. This space is required for the helmport and will be described more fully in the section on Rudder and Transom. Now you can reassemble the hull according to Fig. 20 and use Weldwood glue.

The hull block is now perfectly formed and only a little trimming forward and right aft is needed. Broken glass is better than carving tools to scrape the contour down to the dimensions shown on the body plan.

Rough sand the hull and apply two thick coats of turpentine and varnish to seal the grain of the wood against fluff during the final sanding.

If you have followed directions as shown in Fig. 18, the hull will be formed and shaped in one day instead of a week by carving and a month by planking.

Sheer Lines

Little importance was given to sheer lines during the seventeenth century. Decks were sloped fore and aft for drainage purposes only. The drainage scuppers or waterways were located at the looff near the pumps. This was the low point of drainage. Mark a spot on the deck lift one foot down on your scale, midway between the main mast and the quarter deck bulkhead.

Draw a line from this mark forward to the stem and aft to the transom until they end in nothing. Then use a spokeshave to bring the deck level down to the mark at midships. A polished surface is not needed because a plywood decking will be glued on top of it.

Timing and Sequence

There is a proper time to do things in making a model. If the sequence is lost by doing last things first, a lot of valuable time is lost and many items will look make-shift. Now is the time for you to finish your sanding and apply the priming coats before the keel and stem are fitted. These operations are much easier performed without obstructions. Sanding will be easier, now that the sealing coats are dry and hard.

There is an excellent filler called Plastic Patch. Mix it with water into a paste and fill all cracks; then when dry, coarse sand the hull. Another application of plastic patch will be needed during the sanding operation to take care of its shrinkage. When you are satisfied with your sanding apply two coats of white primer. Don't bother with colors until the proper time arrives.

The Stem Knee

Make a cardboard pattern like Fig. 39, according to the scale you are using. The stem head comes up through the beak head deck and the knee supports the deck right out to the end.

This pattern can then be sawn out of plywood and fastened to the bow with dowels and glue. If your model is a complete hull the stem follows the contours of the bottom and is scarfed into the keel where shown on the drawing. The keel should be of hardwood; the forward end is scarfed into the stem and the rudder rests on the after end. Allow the keel to project beyond the stern one foot on your scale to accommodate the rudder spindle. This extension is known as the skeg. Sand all these parts ready for painting and attach them to the ship with dowels and glue. Round toothpicks are excellent for the purpose.

Painting the Hull

Turn the hull bottom-up and paint white below the waterline and light grey above. Masking tape should be used at the dividing line.

Do not paint the transom right aft until later. When both coats are dry, mount the hull on to a building board, six inches longer and three inches wider than the hull dimensions.

From this point onward you will be needing many types and sizes of wood strip, dowels, veneer and plywood, etc. Your local supplier has them all perfectly machined and sanded.

The Main Deck Plank

The deck plank for the 1/10th model should be 1/16" thick, and l/3" thick for the 1/5th model. Use a cardboard pattern for the main deck plank and mark it all round the deck lift right out to the end of the beak head. The bow view photograph of the ship offers a clear picture of the beak and fore deck. Trim the pattern along the edges 1/16" for the 1/10 scale model, and ⅛" for the 1/5 scale model.

This will provide a recess between the outer edge of the deck lift and the deck plank to accommodate the bulwarks. Cut a hole in the deck plank so that it will fit over the stem head. Mark off from your drawing the position of the masts and hatches on the deck plank. Then you can use nails at these points to hold the plank down while the glue is set. Weights must be used at the outer edges to keep the deck plank flat. Weldwood glue is satisfactory.

Scribing the Deck Plank

Scribing is a tedious operation and should be confined to the main deck and the fore deck, including the beak head. That part of the deck which will be covered by the forecastle and quarter deck need not be scribed. These limits are shown on the deck layout drawing in broken lines.

Deck planking in early seventeenth century merchant ships were one foot wide. Use a hard pencil and scribe at one foot on your scale. Begin always in the centre and work outward. Finally give the whole plank a coat of light oak stain and varnish.

Quarter Deck, Poop Deck and Forecastle

Now that we have the hull formed up to the main deck, fractional measurements are no longer needed. The quarter deck lift measures one-third of the model's length on deck. That would be four inches on the 12" model and eight inches on the 24" model by rule. The height of the lift is half inch and one inch respectively. The cardboard pattern you made for the main decking can be used for both the quarter deck lift and the scribed decking above. Saw out this lift and secure it with screws. It must be the same size as the deck plank below it at all points. Disregard any unfinished part right aft; the superstructure and transom provide the finished product.

The scribed decking, which is the same shape and size as the lift below it, should extend beyond the after end of the lift one-half inch on the 12" model, and one inch on the 24" model. This part is required for the floor of the poop deck above. Scribe the forward part of the quarter decking beyond the poop deck limit and stain it light oak.

Make a pattern in cardboard of the after end of this main deck plank for the poop deck, which is 2⅜" long fore and aft on the 12" model, and 4¾" long on the 24" model. The smaller model requires ½" wood and the larger model 1" wood. The decking above this lift is exactly the same size and should be scribed all over, then oak stained.

The Forecastle Superstructure

The superstructure on each side must be sawn out of plywood, as shown on the drawing, and rest on the deck lift in the recess beyond the decking. (See Fig. 23). This pattern when fitted forms the port and starboard walls of the forecastle, and butts into the bulwarks of the main deck. Deck beams across the ship are attached to these forms on which the forecastle deck is laid. The forecastle position and limits are shown in the broken lines on the deck layout Drawing 59. Glue and pins will hold the housing in position until the bulkheads are installed. Do not make fast to forecastle deck until the bulkheads are in place.

The After Superstructure

The port and starboard pattern for this enclosure follows the shape shown in Fig. 40A.

It is a one piece plywood that shapes the whole after part of the ship and includes the bulwarks for the poop and quarter decks, which were three feet on your scales above the deck level. It fits into the recess between the main decking and the main deck lift and can be pinned or glued to the side of the ship. Use a cardboard pattern to get a proper fit. Saw out the plywood form and paint it light grey on both sides before you fasten it to the ship.

Bulkheads

Working to fractional dimensions of scaled drawings is never satisfactory in confined spaces like bulkheads. Human error, even with the best of us, comes naturally. The cardboard pattern cut to the proper dimensions is more accurate and time saving.

Plate 8 shows the design and proportions of all the ship's bulkheads, but their dimensions should be checked on individual patterns, then transferred to plywood.

The poop deck bulkhead shows a leaded glass window. This is the whipstaff lantern shining through the bulkhead. Saw out a proportionate hole in the wood and insert a piece of wire mesh cut on the bias; back of it a plastic section to represent glass, and back of that a piece of white paper. This will imitate a leaded glass lighted window. On the outside a frame cut from red paper will complete the illusion. The doors may be formed out of veneer and the knobs made from y8" beads. Doors should be varnished. Fine stripwood painted white is used for division lines. Bulkheads are painted light grey.

Quarterdeck Bulkhead

The bow view photograph of the ship gives a clear view of the quarterdeck bulkhead. It should be made from a cardboard pattern and painted light grey on both sides. Two large eyelets painted black, with small cannon projecting out of them, illustrate arquebusses for scouring the deck with small shot. They were simply old fashioned blunderbusses that scattered shot on enemy boarders and were deadly at close range.

Two vent ports are shown in this bulkhead which is detailed in Fig. 41 A. Their function was to provide light and ventilation, but they could be used as musket ports in action. A strip of plastic behind the slots will indicate the glass panes. A small paper union flag, which you can buy from your supplier, will serve as the ship's escutcheon.
 
Door and division strips are the same as those used on other bulkhead, but the lower finishing strip next to the deck must be painted blood red.

The Forecastle After Bulkhead

The only difference between this bulkhead and that of the quarter deck is the double door at midships. One of these doors led to the crew's quarters; the other to the passenger accommodation below decks. The port vents, arquebusses, painting and trim are the same, and the lower trim must be red like the quarter deck bulkhead.

Fore Deck Bulkhead

This is shown clearly in the bow view of the ship. Only a single vent port at midships and a door on the port side. All division strips are painted white.

There is a bend in the bow of the ship at this point and careful measurement with a pattern is necessary in order to keep the bulkhead within the limits of the main deck planking and leave the recess free for the bulwarks later on.

Transoms

The ship has three transoms: lower, middle and upper, as shown in Plate 9. Level the lower transom by sanding; this is the rough end of the wood and must be veneered to make a satisfactory job. The slot which you cut into the after end of the deck lift can now be painted dead black to simulate darkness. This is the helmport through which the tiller passes on the level with the rudder head. Visualization of this operation is clear in both broadside and quarter view photographs of the ship. Carve a half oval hole in the pattern and place it over the helmport; then mark your pattern.

Cut out the lower transom pattern on thin veneer and glue it to the hull. When the helmport is properly fitted, paint the same colors as the hull.

The rudder and helm can be carved and fitted now. The tiller fits over the rudder head and is glued in position. Its length need only be that of the helmport and will not be seen. Dowel and glue the rudder to the transom firmly. The two small gunport lids, one on each side of the rudder, should be painted black.

The Middle Transom

Plate 9 shows the detail and the shape of the middle transom, but the cardboard pattern is the best means of fitting it. This section begins at the top of the lower transom and ends at the quarter deck plank which forms a roof above it. A little bevelling of the edges is necessary, which is impossible to describe.

An arched top window painted red, and made in the same manner as that on the poop deck bulkhead, is in the centre. This window worked on the same principal as a french window which opened inwards to allow passage to the stern walk. However, a dummy is sufficient. On each side of this window is a paper St. George's cross obtainable from your supplier, or you can make them.

The Upper Transom

This section was often called Taffrail, a word that is derived from the Dutch Tefferel meaning a picture frame. Dutch ships of the sixteenth century often showed the King's head in this frame. Plate 9 shows detail of this transom but not its actual dimensions. Only a cardboard pattern can verify its exact measurements. The Sea Dog design with Sea Venture below it is the ship's emblem.

It can be painted on the centre of the transom, which is painted black and framed with white moulding. This pattern covers the ends of the poop and quarter decks, also the superstructure ends, and reaches upward above the poop deck, level with the bulwarks.

Bulwarks

The main deck bulwarks consist of a strip of plywood fitted into the recess between the deck lift and the main decking, and are butted into the after and forecastle superstructures. There are three gunports in this bulwark, with open lids to show the guns. The drawing shows the scale of height. It would, however, be advantageous to wait until you receive the dummy guns from your supplier before carving the gun-ports. The correct size of dummy guns is one inch long for the 1/5th model and three quarters inch long for the 1/10th model, but you may have to accept guns slightly larger or smaller.

Then carve the gunports to suit and fit the open lids as shown on the broadside view.

Do not secure the bulwarks in place until all the deck fittings are in place. It will be less awkward to work inside on hatches, pumps, etc., if the bulwarks are not in the way.

The Foredeck Bulwark

This section is shown on Fig. 42: it butts against the forecastle bulkhead and runs along the recess between the fore decking and the lift, right out to the end of the beak head.

The bends may be too pronounced to use plywood. White pine soaked in hot water, or steamed, is more satisfactory. Pin it in position while wet and secure it permanently with glue and pins when dry.

This is the end of the hull construction, except the hand rails which can be fitted later.

Decorating The Hull

Sea Venture belonged to the Royal Stuart age of splendor and her colorings are much more elaborate than any of the old time barkes that had to do with early American History.

The geometric patterns may be painted on, but it is more satisfactory to cut them out of colored paper and stick them on. Amyl acetate or lacquer, which can be bought in drug stores as clear nail polish, is a good substance if brushed on lightly. It can also be used on the outside to protect the design from moisture and dust. The poop deck bulwarks above the deck level are light blue. The quarter deck design is red and runs all the way from the transom to the main deck bulwarks. This design and color is also on the upper edge of the forecastle superstructure. The foredeck bulwarks are painted black, and the white geometric design goes right out to the end of the beak head. These colors are shown clearly in the color plate frontispiece.

Inboard all the bulkheads have this same design in light green. The division lines should be narrow stripwood or painted on.

Fittings On The Hull

The stern walk. This pattern follows the line of the main deck just over the helmport. (Fig. 43)

Cut out the cardboard pattern that fits the contour of the ship. This will give the lower platform dimensions. The bulwarks, hand rails and colored design goes all around the stern walk. The platform is painted light grey on both sides; the bulwarks are grey inside and black outside. The trim is black, the geometric white. It is supported by knees fastened to the hull two on each side.
Fig. 44 shows the main deck, quarter deck and poop deck hatches which were covered with grating to provide light and ventilation below deck.

The accommodation hatches on the fore and quarter deck and the magazine hatches on the gun deck were not ventilated.

The hatch combings were all painted blood red except the poop deck, which was painted grey. Gratings were varnished, except that of the poop which was white. The deck layout on Drawing 59 gives their dimensions.

Knights

Fig. 45 shows a design which harmonizes with the age of the ship and suits the fittings which are available at your supplier.

There is no actual design for merchant ships of the early seventeenth century to suit everyone. Instead of sheaves used in knights designed for warships of this age, cleats are used because they are suitable and easily procured. These knights, painted black, are set into the deck immediately behind each mast. Their main function is to accommodate the tackle for the yard lifts, which is explained in the section on Rigging.

Wales

Wales were heavy planks running fore and aft on the outside of the hull for protection against collision of enemy ships when boarding. The lower wale of stripwood is centred on the waterline. The top is the sheer wale, the centre is midway between the two as shown in the broadside view of the ship. Fit these wales, paint them black and pin the two lower ones in position; but do not install the sheer wale until the bulwarks are in position, then the sheer wale will hide the join.

Channels

Fig. 46 is a spacing board or channel fastened to the hull to space the deadeyes.

They are secured to the hull by knees for rigidity. The fore channel has notches for five deadeyes. The main has six and the mizzen four.

Anchors

The wood stock anchors are slung in the davit by a lanyard which is fastened to the rail by a cleat. Do not use chain; anchor cables were made of rope in those days. Seize the cable to the ring, with the other end in the hawse pipe, which you can make with a large eyelet.

A line is attached to the fluke of the anchor and the other end is fastened to a small cask or buoy to mark the position of the anchor if the cable broke. A suitable cask can be bought from your supplier for five cents.

The Whipstaff

The steering whipstaff is set in the quarter deck at midships, in front of the window in the poop deck bulkhead. It indicates to the helmsman below deck which way to move the helm. The steering gallery below decks was only 5' wide and allowed very little leverage to the helm. The principal steering was done by the lateen sail.
The lateen sail on the mizzen was used solely as a steering sail. It was not considered as a propelling sail.

Hand Rails

The bow view of the ship gives a clear view of all the hand rails and how they are installed. They are all made of stripwood, slightly larger than the thickness of the bulwarks to which they are attached. The top of the railings can be made half oval by sanding the edges. Small white beads make excellent stanchions. Paint your railings first, then fasten them in position with pins driven down through the railing and the beads, into the bulwark below.

Armaments

The ship's armaments consisted of eight demi-culverins, 9 lb. shot; eight sakers 5 lb. shot; and four falcons 3 lb. shot.

The main and quarter deck demi-culverins and the two small falcons on the forecastle head are mounted on carriages as shown in Figs. 49 and 50.

The sakers are all inboard and only the gunport lids, to show their position, are required. Two of the demi-culverins are mounted on the quarter deck with the muzzles poking through between the bulwark and the hand rail. No gunports or lids are required. The other six demi-culverins are on the main deck, spaced evenly. Carriages are separate and they should be pinned and glued to the deck close to the bulwark. When they are in position, mark the gunports in the bulwark, cut them out, paint the inner side blood red and the outerside black. Now the main deck bulwarks can be installed, the gunport lids fitted, as shown in the bow view of the ship, and the guns glued into their carriages with contact glue. All that remains are the two smaller falcons on the forecastle head which can be fitted without gunports on lids.

Gunport Lids

The main deck demi-culverins require open lids; they should be painted black on the outside and blood red inside. They are held up by a lanyard attached to a cleat on the main rail. (See Fig. 51) The sakers are all stowed inboard with closed lids. The Quarter deck demi-culverins and falcons on the forecastle need no lids.

Ladders

Two ladders are required for the poop deck; they are painted white and may be made with wood or metal. The bow view of the ship gives a clear vision of these ladders.

Two poop deck lanterns, painted red, are required. They are fastened to the upper transom, one on each side. They are rather difficult to carve but can be obtained from the supplier.

Davits

Anchor davits are posts set into the fore deck bulwarks. There is a sheave in the outer end and a screw eye on the lower side to accommodate the catting lanyard.

Lifeboats

The longboat, painted white, is laid bottom-up on the main hatch and is lashed to four screweyes in the hatch combings. The catboat is stowed and lashed over the quarter deck hatch in a similar manner. Use black twine for the lashings.

Capstan And Pumps

Two upright old fashioned draw pumps are fitted near the quarter deck bulkhead. These are painted black. The capstan, painted red, is fixed in the deck midway between the pumps and the main knight.

Symbolic Drawings In The Text

The little figure drawings in the text where they are most applicable provide a visualization to be followed in the time and sequence of model building.

Fractional measurements without guidance are often puzzling unless limits are known and understood. The shape of things to come outlined in these unsealed figures enables the modeler to understand the nautical names and purpose of the particular section he is working on.

Working by patterns, carefully fitted to their measurements by rule, is the acme of professionalism, because drawings and detailed specifications together assure greater accuracy. While these innovations apply to modelling Sea Venture; they are also applicable to any kind of model ship building.

Mast And Spars

The scale Drawing 59 provides details and measurements for all masts and spars for the 1/10th scale model. A table of lengths, thickness and tapers is provided for the larger model. There is no substantiated evidence that spar measurements followed the same scale as that of the hull. Fractional measurements, therefore, can be omitted and be replaced by standard rule dimensions.

Sea Venture's spars were made from Baltic (white) Pine, but many modelers use the standard cherry wood dowels. These dowels are a little harder to taper and form, but the use of broken glass for scraping the wood to size is very helpful, and this type of wood seldom has refractory grains like pine.

Table Of Mast And Spar Dimensions
                                                                        max.
                                                length               diameter           masthead
                                                in inches           in inches           in inches

main lower mast                        12                    ⅜                     ¼
fore lower mast                         9                      5/16                 ¼
mizzen lower mast                     6¾                   ¼                     3/16
fore & main flag pole                2                      ⅛                     1/16

The main mast is measured from the main deck; foremast from the forecastle deck, and the mizzen from the quarter deck. Add the length required for stepping below decks'.

                                                                        max.
                                                length               diameter           masthead
                                                in inches           in inches           in inches

main top mast                           6¼                   ¼                     7/32
fore top mast                            6                      ¼                     3/16
mizzen top mast                        6¾                   3/16                 1/16
main topgallant                          5                      3/16                 1/16
fore topgallant                           4                      5/32                 1/16

Bowsprit: length to fore deck bulkhead is 1¼", diameter ¾", tip 14".

                                                                        max.
                                                length               diameter masthead
                                                in inches           in inches in inches

main lower yard                        l2½                  ⅜                     3/16
fore lower yard                         l0¾                  ⅜                     3/16
mizzen lower yard                     6½                   ¼                     ⅛
spritsail yard                             6½                   ¼                     ⅛
lateen yard                                l0¾                  ¼                     ⅛
main topsail yard                       6¼                   ¼                     ⅛
fore topsail yard                        5⅜                   3/16                 3/32
mizzen topsail yard                    3¼                   ⅛                     1/16
main topgallant yard                  3⅛                   ⅛                     1/16
fore topgallant yard                   2¼                   ⅛                     1/16

NOTE: Yard tapering is a subject on which no unanimity has ever been reached. Proportionate tapering half way from the centre to the yard arm looks best. In each case the yard arm tip should be half the diameter of the yard's centre.

Make your bowsprit to its proper dimensions and taper it. Sand it for painting, then install two cleats on each side near the stem head. Paint the bowsprit mast color and wold it.

Your supplier has 3/16" brass cleats that can be driven into any spar to fasten the halyards and braces. They are listed in his catalog as "Brass Cleats No. 13." Refer to listings in the Appendix.

Woldings are rope bands around the bowsprit and masts to strengthen them. They can be simulated by winding black cord around at even intervals. Five woldings of eight turns are required for the bowsprit. Details are shown on the fore and main masts in Drawing 59.

The bowsprit is the first spar to be stepped because it governs the rigidity and setting of all the masts. The tilt or "steeve" of the bowsprit is very important. This spar, which is the longest in the ship, enters the deck in front of the forecastle bulkhead, not in the centre, but far enough to starboard to clear the foremast. In the actual ship it continues on down into the hold and was stepped under the main hatch. You can bevel the under side of the butt to simulate its entrance into the deck, once you have found the correct steeve or tilt.

The actual height of the outer end of the bowsprit is 35' above the water line mark on the hull, which equals 3½" on the 1/10th scale and 7" on the 1/5th scale, by rule. Carve the bevel on the underside of the butt to suit this height; then pin and glue it to the deck. Gammon the bowsprit as shown in Fig. 39. The gammoning line goes down through two slots in the beak head deck and around the stem knee.

The Lower Masts And Yards

Make all three of the lower masts and yards at the same time; paint them mast color and wold the fore and main mast. Drive in three small cleats on each side of the fore mast two rows of three on each side of the main and mizzen, half inch above the deck level. These cleats are the same as used on bowsprit and are needed for the braces and halyards. The object of fixing these cleats to the mast now is because you can hammer them in before the mast is stepped and they can be painted mast color at the same time.

Fixing The Lower Yard

Drill a hole in the mast, fore and aft, one inch below the doubling. The lift goes through this hole and forms into a loop to hold the lift halyard block on the after side. All three masts are the same. Pin the yard to the mast in its proper position. It can be permanently secured later on.

Stepping The Foremast

Do not step the main and mizzen masts until the foremast is complete; otherwise, they will be in your way while dressing the mast and yards.

The Tops

The tops are fixed to the mast ⅞" below the mast head. This is the length of the doubling on the 24" model. However, holes have to be drilled in the bottom of the top before they are fitted to the masts. There is the centre hole through which the mast head passes; two slots made, one on each side where the shrouds enter; a ⅛" hole forward for the forestay, and three small holes on each side for the upper yard halyards to pass through on their way down to the cleats driven into the mast. When this is accomplished, paint the top grey like the hull and black inside; then fix it to the mast with Weldwood glue.

Tops should be made on a turning lathe, out of hardwood. There is no available supply source for tops of this period.

Mast Assembly

Plate No. 6 shows an enlarged view of the mast assembly and the positions of the yards. It is good practice to complete the mast work and attach the yards in position temporarily before stepping the masts. Holes for the yard halyards should be drilled through the masts where shown in dotted lines, using the Collet drill, item No. 7 in the tool list. Cut a slot in the lower mast doubling just above the bottom of the top to allow the lower shrouds to be fastened there. All this work should be done before the tops and mast caps are glued in position. The upper tops are plain circles made with sheet fibre. All masts are fitted the same, except that the mizzen has no upper doublings.

The best way to step the mast is to fasten a tiny screw into the butt and file it down to needle sharpness; Fig. 31 shows the detail. When the masts are properly aligned push the sharp point into the soft wood below decks.

The Fore Channels And Deadeyes

The five wire stropped deadeyes can now be fixed into the channels with tiny round head screws, ¼" x 0. The deadeyes for the fore shrouds must be the same size and design, but without strops.

Attach the stropped deadeyes to the side of the ship, using six for the main, five for the foremast and four for the mizzen. Now you can make your shrouds and ratlines.

Shrouds And Ratlines

The methods and specifications, detailed in the intermediate course applying to the clipper ship Flying Cloud, apply also to the Sea Venture, except lengths which you must determine by measurement when the masts are all set dead midships. Reeve your lanyards into the deadeyes as shown in Fig. 33.

Spreaders On The Lower Shrouds

There are three wooden spreaders to each lower shroud; the lower one, called the sheer pole, is attached to the shroud at the deadeyes; the middle one is half way up the shroud, and the upper one is called the futtock staff. Seize these spreaders to each strand of the shrouds and varnish them.

The Topmast Shrouds

These shrouds, which can be made on the same form as the lower ones, have three strands and are fastened to the futtock staff on the lower shroud. The upper end goes through the top and is attached to the mast head. File three slots in the lower top for the strands to rest in; then use a spot of glue to hold them.

The Topgallant Shrouds

These shrouds have no deadeyes or landyards; they are fastened to the upper top by a crown or drawbucket knot. The upper end is attached to the topgallant doubling. Only two strands are required.

Rigging Lines, Blocks and Deadeyes

All the standing rigging should be black and increased in size as you work downward. If you have difficulty in finding black cord for this purpose, bleach the wax out of white cord and dye it black; then varnish it when it is in position. The main stay, which is equal to the anchor cable, is the largest rope in the ship; the other stays should be reduced proportionately.

Yard Halyards

Sea Venture's yard halyards were all fastened inboard to the knights behind the masts. There is no way of showing them in a profile drawing because the mass of other rigging obscures them. The exaggerated view of these halyards shown on Plate No. 10 is quite clear. Yard halyards on all the masts are rigged the same except that the mizzen has one yard less.

Halyards are fastened to the yards as shown in detail 2 Plate No. 10; the end goes through the mast to a block on the after side. One end of the halyard is whipped to the block as shown in Fig. 35. The lower block of the topgallant and topmast halyards is fastened to the masthead and the end comes down to a cleat on the knight. The lower yard halyards are similar, but the lower block is hooked to the ring in the knight and the end is also fastened there. The upper blocks should be⅛", the topmast block 3/16", and the lower ones ¼". White cord is used for these halyards, decreasing in size downward. Yard arm halyards are clearly shown on Drawing 59. All are the same and end up on cleats fastened to the mast near the deck.

Dressing The Yards

Each yard arm requires two single blocks one pointing upward for the yard arm halyards, and the other pointing aft for the braces. The latter should have a short pendant of 26 link chain. File a slot in each yard arm near the tip for the lashings of the blocks. This will look professional and make the lashings secure. All lashings on all yards, stays and masts should be fine black cord and be touched with clear nail polish.

Standing Rigging

Yard arm halyards should be attached at the beginning so that the yards may be set in proper alignment. They are all marked No. 12 on the Drawing 56. The whip is fastened to the mast where shown; the end comes down to a cleat on the mast near the deck. All these lines should be white.

Fore and Aft Stays

The fore and aft stays are clearly shown on Drawing 59. The main stay, which is heavy cord the size of the anchor cable, has deadeyes and lanyard above the forecastle. The fore topmast stay has a euphoe or fiddle block and a martinet laced to the bowsprit. The mizzen stay is lashed to the main mast under a cleek as shown in Fig. 31. All cords are black.

Back Stays

The fore and main backstays are fastened to the upper doublings and have tackles at the lower end which are attached to the after end of the channels; the ends are fastened to belaying pins in the railings. The mizzen mast has no backstays. The stays are black cord the tackles are white.

The Winding Tackles No. 190

These tackles are fastened to the lower main doubling and come down through the top with the main stay. The ends are fastened to screw eyes in the forecastle deck. The upper block is lashed to the stay; the lower one is hooked into a screw eye in the ammunition hatch cover; the end is fastened there also. The stay is black cord; the tackle is white.

The Yard Arm Braces No. 14

The fore topgallant yard braces are whipped to the main topmast stay, then to a block on the yard pendant; down to another block on the main topmast stay; through a block on the fore top and end at a cleat on the mast. All blocks except the pendant block should be double. All cords are white. The fore topmast yard braces are rigged exactly the same; so is the fore lower yard, except the end is fastened to a belaying pin on the after forecastle railing.

The main topgallant yard braces are whipped to the mizzen mast head; then to the pendant block; back to the double block on the mizzen mast head and end up on a cleat on the mast near the deck. The main topmast yard braces are rigged the same. The lower main yard braces are whipped in the pendant block as shown in Fig. 35. The lower block is attached to a screw eye in the after deck railing, the end is fastened to a belaying pin close by.

The mizzen topmast yard braces are whipped to the lateen yard; up to the pendant block; back to a double block on the lateen yard; then down through another double block on the mizzen top to a cleat on the mast. The mizzen lower yard braces are rigged the same as those on the main.

The lateen yard braces are actually guys to secure the yard in position and no blocks are required. The ends go down to belaying pins on each side of the quarter deck railings. The lateen down haul No. 116 is rigged exactly the same.

The spritsail yard braces on the bowsprit are shown clearly the end comes along the bowsprit to a cleat on the port and starboard sides of it. The ends of the spritsail yard halyards are fastened to the bowsprit in the same manner; all are white cord.

Sail Outlines

These lines indicate the shape of the sails and their actual size. Fasten a white line to the upper yard arms, down to the next yard and ending up on the lower yard arms.

Now you can adjust all your yards to proper alignment, then put a spot of nail polish on the fastenings and trim them closely with scissors.

Finishing Touches

Flags St. George's crosses, two to one in dimensions, are sewn to the foremast head and the after staff; the union flag, not the union jack, about 4 to 5 in dimensions is sewn to the mainmast head. This flag has no St. Patrick's cross. The admiral's broad pendant, about 6 to 4 in dimensions, is sewn to the mizzen mast head. All can be made from cardboard and painted on both sides.

Figurehead This can be carved out of wood, using the pattern shown in the upper transom Fig. E. It is painted white and fastened to the beak head deck between the railings.

Exhibiting the Model

If you have made a complete hull, mount it on pedestals and baseboard, or make a suitable cradle. If it is a waterline model, it can be left as is. Glass cases are not recommended unless the model is exhibited in public places.

If a glass case is necessary do not put glass in the back of it. Use a plywood board painted azure; this will give the rigging lines more definition. Always show model ships from the starboard side.
Don't forget the oriflames or stern lanterns, one on each side of the upper transom -both are painted red.

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